© The so called Rauchhaus in Mondsee © Foto Meindl Mondsee
Frontal view of the so called smoke-house in Mondsee.
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Godn and Göd come with the Easter pretzel

Throughout the German-speaking world, it is customary for godparents to give their godchildren certain biscuits at Easter and All Saints' Day.

Anyone familiar with this custom will know that it was always exciting when the godmother or godfather came to visit at Easter time. Admittedly, there was also a lot of joy when the godmother or godfather brought an Easter nest or a basket of presents. But while toys or gifts of money have been forgotten, one thing has been remembered: the Easter pretzel amidst the other gifts, which unmistakably symbolised that this visit was something special.


Where does this custom come from?
As with all major occasions throughout the year, Easter also developed its own food customs. Bread, once the staple food, continues to play a major role. The hand-moulded baked goods - known as shaped breads - have their origins in the realm of myths and legends. As signs and symbols, they were once the centre of ritual acts and later replaced human and animal sacrifices as dough replicas.
The customs surrounding bread go back to the deeply rooted idea that the life-sustaining power attributed to the grain is transferred to the eater and that the symbolic representation is also transferred. In Christianity, too, Easter bread and pastries symbolise strength and a shared meal. It is also a sign that Jesus is the living bread that came down from heaven.


Different types of Easter baked goods
There are three groups of Easter baked goods: Lenten baked goods, patron saints' gifts and the actual Easter breads or consecrated breads. The pretzel - known as a Christian Lenten food - used to be made only during Lent. It therefore stands to reason that this pastry is often used for the Easter custom.

The Easter pretzel in Mondseeland
In Mondseeland, the tradition of the Easter pretzel is still lived and passed on today, confirms master baker Frank Berger from the bakery of the same name in Mondsee. "In the past, it was something special to be able to eat fresh bread or sweets. Today, everything is available at any time and an Easter pretzel is perhaps no longer as important as it used to be." Nevertheless, according to Berger, it is up to his guild, among others, to preserve and pass on this tradition. "We always point out to our customers that this custom exists and that it is customary for godparents to give their godchildren a special pretzel for Easter. Many people know about this custom, but some don't. And most of them buy the pretzel for breakfast on the Easter holidays anyway."

Easter pretzel is reminiscent of childhood
"The characteristic feature of the Easter pretzel is probably its size," says Berger. "Our Easter pretzels, which are made from fine brioche yeast dough, weigh around 60kg, contain no sultanas and are sprinkled with loaf sugar. Time and again, his customers have special requests regarding size or appearance. "We are happy to fulfil these requests because people associate them with childhood memories and therefore want the pretzels exactly as they used to have them."

Holy pretzels were distributed to family members 
Even rarer than the Easter pretzels today are the "Weihweckerl", which Berger also makes. "My grandmother used to take them to the food blessing on Holy Saturday and give some to the grandchildren afterwards." We probably have her to thank for the fact that these holy wreaths are still available in Mondsee.

 

 

written by Andrea Vitzthum

References: University of Innsbruck

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